Ten Tips for Saving Energy in the Kitchen

By:  Douglas Trattner

Maintaining your large kitchen appliances is part of a smart home energy efficiency plan.
Refrigerator/freezer Energy-efficiency experts tell us to focus our efforts on the biggest energy hogs in the house, and that definitely includes the fridge. Because it cycles on and off all day, every day, the refrigerator consumes more electricity than nearly every appliance in the home save for the HVAC systems. The average refrigerator costs about $90 per year to operate, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. The good news is that a few simple adjustments can trim roughly $38 to $45 off those utility bills. 1. Adjust the thermostat. By setting the thermostat colder than it needs to be, you might increase your fridge's energy consumption by as much as 25% on average. Adjust the refrigerator so that it stays in the 37-40 degrees F range. For the freezer, shoot for between 0-5 degrees F. You could save up to $22 per year. If your model doesn't display the current temps, invest in two appliance thermometers (one for the fridge, one for the freezer). They cost roughly $3-$20 apiece at online retailers. 2. Clean the coils. As dust accumulates on the condenser coils on the rear or bottom of the fridge, it restricts cool-air flow and forces the unit to work harder and longer than necessary. Every six months, vacuum away the dust that accumulates on the mechanism. Also, check to see that there is at least a 3-inch clearance at the rear of the fridge for proper ventilation. This routine maintenance can trim up to 5% off the unit's operating cost, says energy savings expert Michael Bluejay, saving you about $4.50 a year. 3. Use an ice tray. Automatic ice makers are a nice convenience, to be sure, but it turns out the mechanisms are energy hogs. An automatic ice maker can increase a refrigerator's energy consumption by 14% to 20%, according to Energy Star. By switching off the ice maker and using trays, you can save about $12 to $18 off your annual electricity bill. Most units require little more than a lift of the sensor arm to switch them off. To reclaim the space remove the entire unit, a simple DIY job on many models. 4. Unplug the "beer fridge." Many homes have an extra fridge that runs year round even though it's used sparingly. Worse, these fridges tend to be older, more inefficient models. By consolidating the contents to the main fridge and unplugging the additional unit, you eliminate the entire operating cost of a fridge. The second-best solution is to make sure the extra fridge remains three-quarters full at all times. The mass helps maintain steady internal temps and lets the fridge recover more quickly after the door is opened and closed, according to the California Energy Commission. Ovens and ranges "Green" cooking all comes down to proper time and space management. By using gas and electric stoves more effectively, you can painlessly save a few dollars a year. 5. Cut the power early. As anybody who's ever bumped a burner on an electric stove can attest, those heating elements stay hot long after they've been switched off. Put that residual heat to work by shutting off the burner several minutes before the end of the cook time. The same technique can be applied to the oven. The savings can add up to a couple bucks every month. 6. Match the burner to pan. When a small pan is placed on a big burner you can practically see the money disappearing into thin air. By matching the burner to the pan, electricity won't be squandered heating the kitchen rather than the food. The reverse is true, too. A small burner will take considerably longer to heat a large pan than would an appropriately sized burner. For gas stoves, don't let the flames lick the sides of the pot. Follow these tips and watch the utility bills shrink by a few dollars a month. 7. Do away with preheating. You can save about $2 a month by not preheating your oven (20 cents per hour to operate electric oven; eliminate 20 30-minute preheats a month). Many cooks agree that the practice is wholly unnecessary for all but a few recipes, namely baking breads and cakes. This approach may add a few minutes to the overall cooking time, but it eliminates all that wait time on the front end. Dishwasher  As with washing machines, most of a dishwasher's energy needs to go to heating the water. Still, says Lane Burt, an energy policy analyst with The Natural Resources Defense Council, a 10-year-old dishwasher can be made nearly as efficient as a newer model simply by knowing when and how to run it. Follow a few simple tips, and you can reduce your annual utility costs by roughly $35-$54. 8. Manage the load. Most dishwashers use the same amount of water and energy whether they're run full or half-full. You can cut your operating costs by one-third or one-half by running the machine only when it's full. It costs about $54 to run a pre-2000 model dishwasher per year, based on government data. Proper load management can save up to $27 each year. 9. Activate energy-saving features. A dishwasher's heated dry cycle can add 15% to 50% to the appliance's operating cost. Most machines allow the feature to be switched off (or not turned on), which can save $8-$27 per year, assuming an operating cost of $54 annually. If your dishwasher doesn't have that flexibility, simply turn the appliance off after the final rinse and open the door. 10. Use the machine. Many homeowners believe they can save water and energy by hand washing dishes. The truth is that a dishwasher requires less than one-third the water it would take to do those same dishes in the sink. By running the machine (when full), you can cut down the operating time of the hot water heater, your home's largest energy hog. Not only will you save a buck per month, you won't have to do the dishes. Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®  

Residential Home Sales Down 1 Percent in November

After four consecutive months of steady residential sales gains in New Hampshire, November unit sales saw a slight decline compared to the same month a year ago, according to data released this week by the New Hampshire Association of REALTORS (NHAR). The median price of those homes, meanwhile, decreased by 4 percent in November. There were 822 homes sold in November 2011, 2.5 percent behind the 843 sold in November 2010. That came following jumps of 29 percent, 14 percent, 13 percent and 14 percent in the four months prior.  Year to date sales for this year, meanwhile, were 1.2 percent above those through the first 11 months of 2010: 9,790 compared to 9,674. “We would expect to end 2011 a shade ahead of 2010 in terms of the number of residential homes sold,” said NHAR President Tom Riley, a 35-year veteran of the real estate industry and president of Riley Enterprises in Bedford. “This supports our contention that while we are not making huge gains, there seems to be a stabilization underway that we hope speaks to the early stages of a slow recovery, both in the New Hampshire housing market and the broader economy.” The state’s November residential median price dropped from $202,000 in 2010 to $193,450 in 2011. Year to date, the $203,000 median sale price in 2011 is 6 percent below the $215,000 through November of 2010. In local markets, November unit sales increased in five of the state’s 10 counties: 30 percent in Cheshire, 15 percent in Carroll, 14 percent in Belknap, 10 percent in Sullivan and 3 percent in Rockingham. New Hampshire’s largest county, Hillsborough, saw just a 0.5 percent November vs. November decline. Median price fell in all counties other than Rockingham, which saw a dramatic increase in November compared to a year ago: a 52 percent jump, from $159,900 in November 2010 to $242,500 in November 2011. November 2011 data residential As for the number of November condominium sales in New Hampshire, there was a slight increase from 2010 (187) to 2011 (189), while the median price of those sales increased 4 percent, from $160,000 to $166,000. November 2011 data condoSource:  Dave Cummings, NHAR Director of Communications

It's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year!

Many sellers are tempted to take their homes off the market between Thanksgiving and New Year's.  They feel the market significantly slows down and that they have little chance of selling - so why disrupt their holidays?  While the slowdown may be true to some degree, there are several advantages for keeping a house on the market during this time frame.  First, the buyers that are out looking are serious buyers and are ready to offer on something they like.  In addition, there usually are fewer properties on the market this time of year so the competition is reduced.  Plus the holidays offer a perfect time to dress up a home for prospective buyers.  Sellers looking to sell should seriously consider keeping their home on the market through the holidays - it may turn out to be their most wonderful time of the year!

Visit my website www.donnaforest.com for more tips on selling your home and give me a call!  603-526-4116

Chimney Maintenance for Warmth and Safety

Your fireplace, the most low-tech piece of equipment in your house, may seem like a simple load-and-light operation, but ignoring annual maintenance can impair its performance, leading to heated air (and dollars) blowing out the chimney, harmful smoke inside, and possibly even a chimney fire. The average number of annual U.S. home fires caused by fireplace, chimney, and chimney connectors between 2003 and 2005 was 25,100, and the average costs for those fires was $126.1 million, based on the most recent statistics from the Chimney Safety Institute of America. That’s roughly $5,024 in damage per home. Annual chimney maintenance removes flammable creosote, the major cause of chimney fires, and identifies other performance problems. Is it worth the $205 fee, two-hour service call, and all that ash possibly blackening your carpet? Here’s what you need to know to decide.
Annual inspections keep flames burning right Creosote—combustible, tar-like droplets—is a natural byproduct of burning wood. The more wood you burn, the wetter or greener the wood, and the more often you restrict airflow by keeping your fireplace doors closed or your damper barely open, the more creosote is produced. Soot build-up, while not flammable, can hamper venting. One half-inch of soot can restrict airflow 17% in a masonry chimney and 30% in a factory-built unit, according to the CSIA. Soot is also aggressively acidic and can damage the inside of your chimney. The more creosote and soot, the more likely you are to see signs of chimney fire—loud popping, dense smoke, or even flames shooting out the top of your chimney into the sky. Chimney fires damage the structure of your chimney and can provide a route for the fire to jump to the frame of your house. “If the chimney is properly maintained, you’ll never have a chimney fire,” says Ashley Eldridge, the education director of the CSIA. The best way to ensure your chimney isn’t an oil slick waiting to ignite? Get it inspected. Three inspection levels let you choose what you need A level-one inspection includes a visual check of the fireplace and chimney without any special equipment or climbing up on the roof. The inspector comes to your house with a flashlight, looks for damage, obstructions, creosote build-up, and soot, and tells you if you need a sweep. If so, he’ll grab his brushes, extension poles, and vacuum, and do it on the spot. “You should have it inspected every year to determine if it needs to be swept. An annual inspection will also cover you if the neighbor’s children have thrown a basketball in it, or a bird has built a nest,” says Eldridge. A level one typically runs about $125. Add a sweep, and you’re talking another $80, or about $205 for both services, according to CSIA. Consider a level-two inspection if you’ve experienced a dramatic weather event, like a tornado or hurricane; if you’ve made a major change to your fireplace; or bought a new house. This includes a level-one investigation, plus the inspector’s time to visit the roof, attic, and crawl space in search of disrepair. It concludes with a sweep, if necessary, and information on what repair is needed. The price will depend on the situation. A level three inspection is considered “destructive and intrusive” and can resemble a demolition job. It may involve tearing down and rebuilding walls and your chimney, and is usually done after a chimney fire. The cost will depend on the situation. Small steps can improve your fireplace’s efficiencyBesides the annual sweep, improve your fireplace’s functioning with responsible use.
  • Only burn dry, cured wood—logs that have been split, stacked, and dried for eight to 12 months. Cover your log pile on top, but leave the sides open for air flow. Hardwoods such as hickory, white oak, beech, sugar maple, and white ash burn longest, though dry firewood is more important than the species. Less dense woods like spruce or white pine burn well if sufficiently dry, but you’ll need to add more wood to your fire more often, according to CSIA.
  • Wood, only wood! Crates, lumber, construction scraps, painted wood, or other treated wood releases chemicals into your home, compromising your air quality. Log starters are fine for getting your fire going, but they burn very hot; generally only use one at a time.
  • Close your damper when not using the fireplace to prevent warm indoor air—and the dollars you’re spending to heat it—from rushing up the chimney.
  • On a factory-built, prefab wood-burning fireplace, keep bifold glass doors open when burning a fire to allow heat to get into the room.
  • Have a chimney cap installed to prevent objects, rain, and snow from falling into your chimney and to reduce downdrafts. The caps have side vents so smoke escapes. A chimney sweep usually provides and can install a stainless steel cap, which is better than a galvanized metal one available at most home improvement retailers because it won’t rust, says Anthony Drago, manager of Ashleigh’s Hearth and Home in Poughkeepsie, N.Y.
  • Replace a poorly sealing damper to prevent heat loss. “You can get a top-mounted damper that functions as a rain cap, too, an improvement over the traditional damper because it provides a tighter closure,” says CSIA’s Eldridge.
  • Install carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors in your house—near the fireplace as well as in bedroom areas.
  • If you burn more than three cords of wood annually, get your chimney cleaned twice a year. A cord is 4-feet high, by 4-feet wide, by 8-feet long, or the amount that would fill two full-size pick-up trucks.
  • To burn fire safely, build it slowly, adding more wood as it heats and keeping your damper completely open to increase draw in the early stages. Burn the fire hot, at least occasionally—with the damper all the way open to help prevent smoke from lingering the fireplace and creosote from developing.
By the way, fireplaces aren’t officially rated for energy efficiency because they’re so varied. Depending on the source of information, they can be 10% to 30% efficient in converting fuel to heat. No inspection will turn a masonry or factory-built fireplace into a furnace, but it can improve efficiency somewhat, decrease the amount of heating dollars you’re sending up the chimney, and increase your enjoyment of your hearth time by reducing smoke. If a sweeping prevents a chimney fire, you’re talking about the difference between another ordinary January day, and the potential loss of your home, or even life.
Wendy Paris Wendy Paris a New York-based freelance writer who has written for This Old House magazine, as well as for The New York Times and Salon.com.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Residential home sales up 14 percent in October

New Hampshire REALTORS sold 14 percent more homes in October 2011 than in the same period a year ago, marking the fourth consecutive month that unit sales were ahead over the previous year, according to data released by the New Hampshire Association of REALTORS (NHAR). The median price of those homes, meanwhile, decreased by 7 percent in October and are behind year‐to‐date prices of 2010 by 5 percent.
There were 934 residential homes sold in October 2011, a 14 percent increase over the 820 sold in October 2010. That came following jumps of 29 percent, 14 percent and 13 percent in the three months prior. Year to date sales for this year, meanwhile, were 1.5 percent above those through the first 10 months of 2010: 8,960 compared to 8,830.
“There is still too much economic uncertainty to call this a recovery, but we’re certainly beginning to move in the right direction,” said NHAR President Tom Riley, a 35‐year veteran of the real estate industry and president of Riley Enterprises in Bedford. “We would characterize this as the early stages of a gradual stabilization.”
October median price homes dropped from $205,000 in 2010 to $190,000 in 2011. Year to date, the $205,000 median sale price in 2011 is 5 percent below the $215,950 through October of 2010. In local markets, October unit sales increased in seven of 10 counties, while Carroll, Coos and Sullivan counties saw median price increases. October 2011 data residential

As for October condominium sales, there was an almost identical number of statewide sales in 2010 (206) and 2011 (207), while at $169,000 the 2011 median price was 5.7 percent ahead of the$159,900 median price of October 2010. October 2011 data condo

 

5 Holiday Hosting Disasters and How to Avoid Them

Imagine you’re preparing to host your annual holiday party, and you’re past the point of no return. The veggies and meats have been bought. Guests are already braving busy airports and crowded highways to get to your home—and then your oven won’t turn on. Your home-cooked meal has quickly turned into a microwave dinner.
That’s just one of many hosting nightmares that can end your holiday party before it even begins. Thankfully, some of the most damaging mishaps easily can be avoided. We collected five of the most prevalent issues and give you preventative tips to keep your holiday party on track. Problem: The oven doesn’t heatFor any holiday occasion, the oven is the most important appliance in your house. If it fails to work, the centerpiece of your meal could go from roasted beef, ham, duck, or Tofurky to Peking Duck from the local Chinese takeout joint. How to avoid:
  • There are any number of reasons a stove can break, but one common cause of disaster is easy to prevent. Don’t self-clean your oven until AFTER the holidays. You risk blowing a fuse or a thermostat, and tracking down an oven technician around the holidays can be tough.
Problem: The kitchen sink clogsThe day after Thanksgiving is the busiest of the year for plumbers. The prime cause of this clog-a-thon is the mistreatment of drains when cooking holiday feasts. We hope your Thanksgiving went well, and that you avoid clog-a-thons for the rest of the holidays. How to avoid:
  • Fats and cooking oils can solidify in your pipes, so never dispose of them in your kitchen sink.
  • If you have a garbage disposal, make sure it’s running before anything goes in it, and never feed it any stringy, fibrous, or starchy foods like poultry skins or potato peels.
  • To fix, don’t rely on chemical drain-clearing products that can harm your pipes. Use a snake instead, available for $15 at your local hardware store. Best to keep one on hand.
Problem: The heat goes outAs the party’s host, you’re supposed to hang guests’ coats—not apologize to them for having to keep them on. A lack of heat can stop a holiday party dead in its tracks. How to avoid:
  • The key to avoiding freezing your party to a standstill is regular maintenance of your HVAC. Every 90 days, a new one-inch pleated furnace filter should be installed. If you haven’t done it in a while, now’s a good time to replace it.
  • Also inspect insulation on refrigerant lines that are leading into your house. Replace them if they’re missing or damaged.
Problem: The toilet stops upToilets have a way of clogging up at the worst times, such as during parties and when you have overnight guests. This is especially true if you have a low-flow toilet from the early 1990s. How to avoid:
  • Don’t flush anything other than sewage and toilet paper down the toilet. And there’s nothing wrong with putting up a polite note to remind your guests to do the same.
Problem: The fridge doesn’t coolWithout a properly functioning refrigerator, your meat could get contaminated, your dairy-based treats could go sour, and you may not be able to save your yummy leftovers. To avoid discovering a warm fridge after it’s too late, take these simple precautions. How to avoid:
  • Get a thermometer for your refrigerator to make sure each shelf stays below 40 degrees and you can be aware of any temperature changes.
  • Also make sure the condenser coils located on the back of the unit or beneath it are free to breathe. Coils blocked from circulating air by cereal boxes atop the fridge, or dirtied by dust or pet hair can prevent a fridge from keeping cool.
Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this.  Reprinted from Houselogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Radon - A Red Flag for Sellers & Buyers

Radon is a colorless, odorless, radioactive gas that occurs naturally in the ground from the breakdown of radium.  It is very prevalent in New Hampshire.  Studies show that high levels of radon increase the risk of lung cancer.  Radon enters your home through cracks in the foundation and even from the release of the gas in your water (taking a shower for example). Today's buyers test for radon in the air and water and expect sellers to mitigate levels that are higher than recommended guidelines.  Buyers can also use this as a negotiating point to reduce the sales price.  For sellers to maximize selling potential, it is best to test before listing and install mitigation systems as needed.  This will make the home more saleable and avoid a point of conflict with buyers. In order to better understand radon, contact the State of NH at 721-4764, or give Donna a call for a free state environmental fact sheet on radon, 526-4116.

Donna Forest, Broker Associate

We Have Just the House for You!

Whether it's this roomy Colonial in New London, or a beautiful post and beam with Lake Sunapee access, we can find the right home for you.

Featured today is 3 bedroom, 3 bath Colonial in a great location only minutes to shopping, the post office, and hospital/medical offices.  Nice-sized rooms with open kitchen/family/dining rooms.  There is also a detached, large barn/workshop all on 2.4 acres.  For more photos and details, visit www.70PineHill.com.  Offered at $269,000.

Marilyn Kidder, Listing Broker

603-526-4116

New Listing - Charming New Englander

This well-maintained home is adorable and offers a huge great room perfect for entertaining.  It's in New London and close to schools, shops and parks.  Restored barn.  Screened porch and wraparound porch to enjoy the outdoors.  3 bedrooms, 1 bath.  Offered at $200,000 and ready to move in!

Stacey Viandier, Listing Agent

Build the Home You've Always Wanted - Two New Land Listings

Incredible value at this price!  Two wooded lots with stone walls in back adding a typical touch of New England.  Nice neighborhood setting and located on a quiet, dead-end road.  Under 7 miles to Mt. Sunapee Ski Resort and about 11 miles to I-89 for commuting.  Snowmobile trails nearby for winter fun.  Both just under an acre and offered at $28,000 each.

Donna Forest, Listing Broker