Spring Ledge Farm in New London, NH will be open Friday the 21st from 3-6pm (yes, even with this snowy weather). Home grown potatoes (available in bulk as well), garlic, micro mix, beets, turnips & winter squashes and the best sweet potatoes you've ever tasted. Locally grown and raised offerings include Lamb, Beef, Eggs, Honey, Maple Syrup, Cheeses, Ice Cream, Cookies and Bread. Lamb from Hopewell Farms in Newbury, NH. Grass fed, true lamb raised on the fields at Hopewell Farms. This week, we'll have leg of lamb, ground lamb and rib chops. Next week there should be more cuts available. _________________________________________________________ Orchids by Crozer & Crozer - Katie Crozer will bring a great assortment of orchids in bloom. Orchids are especially beautiful this time of year, and the blooms last for months. Have a question about orchids? Ask Katie. _________________________________________________________
2010 marked Spring Ledge Farm's year of growing sweet potatoes. Mother Nature provided a perfect summer for this crop - hot and dry. New varieties of sweet potatoes include 'Baeurigard' and 'Covington', both bred to mature between 90-105 days. This is a shorter days to harvest than other sweet potatoes, which allows them a chance here in N.H. to grow a successful crop, even with our short summers They received the "seeds" as small slips of plants. Slips are small sprouts of the potato that do not yet have roots. They planted them immediately into the field on June 1st. They were planted through a black plastic layer of mulch, which warms the soil, retains moisture and keeps the weeds down. Plants were spaced 12" apart in rows that were 6 feet apart. They will have sweet potato slips available for purchase this spring, so you can try growing some in your garden this summer. Sweet potatoes are in the Ipomea family, the Morning Glory family. They are a vine that mounds and spreads out over the ground as it grows. In fact, dozens of varieties of sweet potatoes are used as ornamental plants and grown as annuals. They look great in hanging baskets, in mixed window boxes or in the garden beds. And yes, they also produce a sweet potato tuber, albeit smaller and a little less sweet. Here is a link to a few varieties that are in the Proven Winners line of plants. With last summer's heat, the vines filled out the rows by mid summer and continued growing until they were harvested just before frost, in late September. They were cured in a dry greenhouse and packed into boxes which were carried down to the cellar. In the cellar they are at just the right temperature and humidity for storage, along with their other storage potatoes. They keep the farmstand stocked with sweet potatoes, ready for your kitchen and table. Sweet potatoes are a fantastic source of Vitamin A, Vitamin C and fiber. Below are a few recipes for sweet potatoes, with hundreds more available at this site, appropriately named as "sweetpotatorecipes.net". _________________________________________________________ Sweet Potato and Chicken Empanadas You need:
1 lb Spring Ledge Sweet Potatoes
2 cooked chicken breasts, shredded
1 large Spring Ledge onion
1 clove Spring Ledge garlic
2 t. ground cumin
1 t. ground coriander
1 t. cinnamon
Olive oil, salt and pepper
1 package frozen puff pastry sheets
Peel and chop sweet potatoes into ½ inch cubes. Toss with olive oil, salt & pepper. Roast at 350 until soft, about 20 minutes. Heat 2 T olive oil, add spices and cook 2 minutes. Add onion and garlic, cooking until soft. Add chicken and cooked sweet potatoes. Thaw the puff pastry sheets and cut each in half. Spoon in as much filling as you can and still fold the top over, pressing the edges together. Bake at 350 20-25 minutes until browned. _________________________________________________________ Sweet Potato Fries You need: Many Spring Ledge Sweet Potatoes Olive Oil salt pepper Any other spices you feel like such as cajun, rosemary, or seasoned salt. Preheat oven to 425. Cut sweet potatoes into desired sized pieces. Toss with the olive oil and seasonings. Spread on a baking sheet and bake for 20-30 minutes or until soft, turning once.
Heating water can account for up to 25% of your household energy costs, but there are some inexpensive things you can do to help increase efficiency and your bills.
Wrap your heater in a blanket Your water heater needs help to stay warm, especially if it's in an unheated space. A fiberglass insulating blanket can cut heat loss by 25% to 40% and save 4% to 9% on an average water-heating bill. Insulating blankets are cheap, usually less than $30 at the home center, and it's easy to install one yourself. Follow the included directions, and take care not to block the thermostat on an electric water heater or the air inlet, exhaust, or top of the tank on a gas unit. Note: If your water heater is fairly new, check the manufacturer's recommendations first. Many newer units already have insulating foam built in; on these models, an after-market jacket could block a critical component. Install low-flow fixtures One of the surest ways to cut hot water costs is to use less of it. By installing low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators, which cost as little as $10 to $20 each, you can cut hot water consumption by 25% to 60%. Turn down the temperature Many water heaters come from the factory with the temperature set needlessly high. For every 10 degrees you turn it down, you'll save another 3% to 5% on your bill. If the thermostat on your water heater doesn't have a numbered gauge, put it midway between the "low" and "medium" marks. Wait a day, then measure the temperature at the tap with a standard cooking thermometer. Keep adjusting this way until you hit your target temperature. Drain the sediment Tanks naturally build up sediment, which reduces the unit's efficiency and makes it more expensive to operate Draining the tank is relatively easy. Turn off the water and power to the unit (set the burner on a gas unit to "pilot"). Then connect a garden hose to the spigot at the base of the tank. With the other end of the hose at a lower spot outside the house where discharging hot water poses no danger, carefully lift the pressure-relief valve at the top of the tank and turn on the spigot; water should begin to flow. While most manufacturers recommend draining the tank once or twice a year, you don't have to drain it completely; in fact, the Department of Energy (http://www.energy.gov) recommends draining less water more often-just a quart every three months. Insulate exposed hot-water pipes Wrapping hot-water pipes with insulation reduces standby losses. Water arrives at the tap 2 to 4 degrees warmer, which means you won't have to stand around as long waiting for it to heat up, thus saving water, energy, and money. While this isn't an expensive job to do yourself-six-foot-long, self-sealing sleeves easily slip over pipes and cost about $2.50 each-it could take some effort, depending on where your hot water pipes are. Exposed pipes in the basement are an easy target, but if pipes are in a hard-to-reach crawl space or inside walls, it might not be worth the trouble. Based on an article by Joe Bousquin, from HouseLogic.com originally published: August 28, 2009. Visit HouseLogic.com for many more helpful articles.
10 Ways to Prevent and Stop Roof Leaks
Today’s issue posted by RISMEDIA featured an article posted by the Vice President of Pillar to Post Home Inspections. Here are the highlights:
Stopping potential leaking problems at the source can help prolong the life of your roof and keep repair costs at a minimum. If you’re not handy, call on a professional to inspect the situation and advise if repairs are needed. Being proactive in this way will save money in the long run.
1. Incorrect shingle installation. Improper joint locations and a lack of underlay are two issues that are particularly hard to see, but can be extremely problematic.
2. Structural sagging. A sagging roof structure is often the result of moisture retention, and nearly always foreshadows, or coincides with, a leak issue.
3. Water “ponding.” Clogged roof drains and indented areas on flat roofs can cause water pooling—which is basically a leak waiting to happen.
4. Damaged nails. Even on shingles that have been expertly installed, nails are the first thing to show wear. Corroding nails leave microscopic holes that invite water in.
5. Improperly hung gutters. Gutter placement is critical, and if you’re in an area with strong wind, just a tiny shift can tamper with the gutter system and divert rain—meant for the gutter—onto the roof.
6. Moss. You might think it’s just an aesthetic problem, but as moss gathers, it retains more and more moisture that you might not be able to see—until it starts dripping into the attic.
7. Insufficient insulation. The roof might look great on the outside, but if it’s not properly insulated underneath, you’re in trouble. Pre-1980s homes, in particular, may not have an adequate vapor barrier; if they don’t, a replacement is warranted—surface patching and minor repairs will just amount to wasted money.
8. A deteriorating chimney. Whether it’s cracks, eroded joints or a decaying cap, the chimney has plenty of inroads for moisture and water. Don’t discount the chimney; sometimes it might need all the repairs, when the roof might be just fine.
9. Evidence of badly-done past repairs. From improper plastering to inadequately plugged-up holes, any past repairs that look like they’re DIY are probably not up to code, and are just a stopgap measure. Don’t look to them to provide any leak protection in the future. Have a professional inspector evaluate these half-hearted fixes, and suggest ways to re-do them properly, to prolong the roof’s life.
10. Don’t forget the attic. Leaks into the attic aren’t just a problem; but so are leaks originating in the attic. One of the most important precautions: Don’t terminate any vent or exhaust pipes in the attic.
December 14, 2010. RisMedia. The author of the original article is Charles Furlough is Vice President, Pillar to Post Professional Home Inspections.
For more information, visit www.pillartopost.com.
Find out if your home is squandering precious energy and costing you money. By following up on problems, you can lower energy bills by 5% to 30% annually. What you’ll need:flashlight, screwdriver, paint stirrer, tape measure and, not just for serenity’s sake, a stick of incense. 1. Hunt down drafts. Hold a lit stick of incense near windows, doors, electrical outlets, range hoods, plumbing and ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and ceiling fans in bathrooms—anywhere drafts might sneak in. Watch for smoke movement. Note what sources need caulk, sealant, weather-stripping, or insulation. 2. Check attic insulation. Winter or summer, insulation does the most good when it’s overhead, so start with the attic. First, do you have insulation? If the insulation you see covers the tops of the joists by several inches, you probably have enough. If the insulation is only even with the tops of the joists, you probably need to add insulation. 3. Check wall insulation. Remove electrical outlet covers to see if your wall contains insulation. Shut off power to the receptacle before probing beside the electrical box with a wooden paint stirrer. Check some switch boxes as well. Their higher wall location lets you see if blown-in insulation has settled. 4. Look for stains on insulation. These often indicate air leaks from a hole behind the insulation, such as a duct hole or crack in an exterior wall. Seal gaps with caulk or spray foam insulation. 5. Inspect exposed ducts. Look for obvious holes and whether joints are sealed. Heating, ventilation, and cooling (HVAC) ducts are made of thin metal and easily conduct heat. Consider insulating them. Uninsulated or poorly insulated ducts in unconditioned spaces can lose 10% to 30% of the energy used to heat and cool your home. 6. Check anything that goes through an exterior wall. Examine dryer ducts, plumbing lines under sinks and vanities, anything that pierces a wall. Any gaps around it should be sealed with spray foam insulation or caulk. Taken from an article by Jane Hodges for houselogic.com, a service of realtor.com
Thanksgiving is just around the corner and that means that Christmas will be coming quickly on its heels. Then, before we know it, it’s time to start pulling together all our tax information. Sure, taxes aren’t due until April 15th, but we all know what a process it is. We also all know that some of the frustration and “pain” can be avoided by getting a jump on it. So, to help give you that early start, here are some web sites which will give you some great tips, whether you’re a first time homebuyer, someone who owns a vacation home, or an investment buyer who has purchased a home at foreclosure. Remember, always check with your own tax advisors, but these articles might provide you with some discussion points. Good luck!
Home sweet homeowner tax breaksTax Tips for Homeowners | DoItYourself.comTurboTax® - Buying a Second Home - Tax Tips for HomeownersTax tips for Homeowners of short sale or foreclosed properties12 Tax Tips for Homeowners in 2010
The following information was released November 9, 2010, by the Department of Environmental Services (DES), Concord, NH –
The NH Carbon Monoxide Work Group announced November, 2010, as the state’s first Carbon Monoxide Awareness Month, as proclaimed by Governor John Lynch.
Carbon monoxide is a serious public safety concern, and poses the greatest risk to people in their homes. Nationally, CO is one of the leading causes of accidental poisoning deaths, and accounts for more than 50,000 emergency department visits each year in the US.
Carbon monoxide poisoning becomes a greater risk as we enter the heating season as people spend more time indoors. Protect your home and family by following these simple do’s and dont's:
DO have your fuel-burning appliances – including oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ranges and ovens, gas dryers, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces, and wood stoves – inspected by a trained professional, and make certain that flues and chimneys are connected, in good condition, and not blocked.
DO read and follow all of the instructions that accompany any fuel- burning device. If you cannot avoid using an unvented gas or kerosene space heater, carefully follow the cautions that come with the device. Use the proper fuel and keep doors to the rest of the house open. Crack a window to ensure enough air for ventilation and proper fuel-burning.
DO install at least one CO detector in the living areas of your home, preferably one on each floor.
DO know the symptoms of CO poisoning, which even at moderate levels, includes severe headaches, dizziness, confusion, nausea or faintness.
If you experience symptoms that you think could be from CO poisoning: get fresh air immediately. Open doors and windows, turn off combustion appliances and leave the house. Call 9-1-1 or get to an emergency room immediately.
DON’T idle the car in a garage -- even if the garage door to the outside is open. Fumes can build up very quickly in the garage and living area of your home.
DON’T use a gas oven to heat your home, even for a short time, and DON’T ever use a charcoal grill indoors – even in a fireplace.
DON'T sleep in any room with an unvented gas or kerosene space heater.
DON’T use any gasoline-powered engines (mowers, weed trimmers, snow blowers, chain saws, small engines or generators) in enclosed spaces, including the garage.
DON’T ignore symptoms, particularly if more than one person is feeling them. You could lose consciousness and die if you do nothing.
For a comprehensive source of information on carbon monoxide safety tips, emergency generator usage, health risks, and more, please see www.nh.gov/co.
The New Hampshire Carbon Monoxide Work Group is an interagency task force dedicated to keeping the public informed of the many safety and health issues related to carbon monoxide. The group includes representatives from the state’s departments of Environmental Services, Health and Human Services, and Safety, the Poison Center, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission, the City of Concord, Concord Regional Health Care, and Powers Generator Service.
Daylight Savings is this weekend. If your home is on the market in the New London/Lake Sunapee Area, many would be buyers will only be seeing your home in the dark. Well-executed outdoor lighting will cast your home in the best possible light and add an abundance of curb appeal. It can also add value. However, it's not just about aesthetics, lighting for security is also important. Here are some elements of successful outdoor lighting: Mimic moonlight: The "moonlight effect' is a naturalistic look that features light no more intense than that of a full moon, but still strong enough to make beautiful shadows and intense highlights. Highlight trees: Illuminated from below or with a light mounted in the tree itself, trees make stunning features. Use up-lights: Up-lighting is dramatic because we expect light to shine downward. Have a focus: The entryway is often center stage, a way of saying, "Welcome, this way in." Stick to warm light: The purpose is to showcase the house and its landscape rather than create a light show. Add safety and security: Stair and pathway lighting help eliminate falls. Motion-detecting security lighting is helpful when you get out of your car at night, and it also deters intruders. Landscape lighting on timers can also illuminate shadowy areas. The moonlight effect can have a security function as its soft, overall lighting eliminates dark areas that might hide an intruder, unlike overly bright lights which create undesirable pockets of deep shadown. Switch to LEDs: Now the light source of choice for lighting designers. A little attention to some outdoor lighting options could make your house stand out from the crowd, especially at this time of year. And that's just what's needed to help you get it sold! This article was based on one by Dave Toht for NAR's houselogic.com, published in March of 2010. Visit the site for more great ideas. Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe's, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader's Digest.
As winter approaches, you will want to take steps to insure that your property is prepared for the weather. If your property is seasonal and not winterized, here are some specific items to address:
- Turn off non-essential utilities
- Secure all windows and doors
- Turn on the alarm system
- Close storm shutters
- Dispose of trash and perishable foods
- Bring in outdoor furniture
- Unplug appliances and electronics
- Drain water lines to prevent freezing
If there are concerns about vandalism, you might want to consider installing a home security system. Another alternative is to hire a local caretaker who will regularly check on your property; look for good references and be sure the individual is bonded and insured.
By having a systematic approach to shutting down your seasonal vacation home, you can avoid expensive and unexpected repairs when you open up in the spring.
Source: National Association of REALTORS, homelogic.com; Donna Fuscaldo, author
One-third of New Hampshire is classified as “abnormally dry” by the National Drought Mitigation Center at the time of this writing, with drought declarations possible before the end of summer. Water use increases sharply during these types of conditions, largely the result of discretionary water use, such as lawn irrigation. In fact, it is not unusual for demand to our water systems to more than double during the summer.
At least 65 New Hampshire water systems are known to have implemented some type of outdoor water use restriction. Thus far, the restrictions have not been the result of water shortages in the environment. Rather, they have been needed to address sharp increases in discretionary consumption that water systems are not engineered to accommodate. However, additional restrictions and implementation of water conservation measures become imperative as drought declarations and supply shortages begin to occur.
Water conservation, although effective at addressing short term challenges, is not simply a drought mitigation tool. Incorporating conservation measures into long-term planning may assist with maintaining adequate supplies in the face of population growth, aging infrastructure, and climate change. The following are behavioral changes to consider, which can be instituted immediately to assist with drought, as well as engineering changes that can be implemented over extended periods to ensure efficient use of the resource.
Water Use: Short Term/Long Term
Landscape Irrigation: Come to terms with landscape irrigation. Is it a priority to spray potable water on the ground to maintain a green lawn? A brown lawn is not a dying lawn, but grass that has gone dormant to survive the dry conditions. If a green lawn is a must, irrigate as efficiently as possible by basing watering needs on soil moisture at the root zone as opposed to automatic timers. A properly designed landscape in New Hampshire will require little to no irrigation to supplement precipitation. Reduce the size of lawns, ensure adequate topsoil, choose drought tolerant grass mixes and locally appropriate plantings to have an attractive, self-sustaining landscape. If irrigation is planned, hire an irrigation professional certified by WaterSense to design, install, and audit the irrigation system.
Fixture Water Use: Install inexpensive thread on faucet aerators to reduce faucet flows. Utilize displacement devices in toilet tanks. Limit time in the shower to less than five minutes. Turn off the faucet when it’s not being used, such as while brushing teeth and shaving. Replace older fixtures with new models that carry the WaterSense label. WaterSense fixtures use 20% less water with no sacrifice in performance. For example, switching to a WaterSense toilet will save the average home 11,000 gallons a year and $64 in utility bills.
Appliance Water Use: Run clothes washing machines and dish washers only when they are full. New horizontal axis washing machines use 20 gallons per load compared to an average of 43 for conventional washing machines. New dishwashers use less than 7 gallons per load compared to 14 for their older counterparts.
Get Creative: Fill a bowl to wash vegetables as opposed to washing them under the tap, and use the wash water for other purposes like watering indoor plants. Install rain barrels to capture roof runoff from downspouts and use the water for vegetable gardens. Two rain barrels installed in tandem can hold 100 gallons of water. A small rain event of a quarter of an inch is about 75 gallons on the average roof top – enough water to sustain your backyard vegetable garden through a dry-spell
Although dry-spells and drought provide a good opportunity to reflect on our water use and identify opportunities for efficiency, it’s important to incorporate water conservation into our every-day lives. Whether on a private well or public supply; implementing the measures above will save you water and money, help the environment, and assist with maintaining adequate supplies for future growth and economic development.
DES has a series of guidance documents that assist homeowners with reducing water use both inside and outside of the home. Please visit: http://m1e.net/c?82384231-GAyj1XpzdborQ%405613956-e1mSRm5gghMLw for a complete list of water efficiency fact sheets. Please visit WaterSense at www.epa.gov/watersense/ to learn more about water efficient fixtures or local irrigation professionals certified through the program.
GREENWorks-Ideas for a Cleaner Environment, August, 2010
A publication of the New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services,
29 Hazen Drive Concord, NH (603) 271-3710
There are plenty of easy, low-cost alternatives to cranking up the air conditioners, which require a lot of energy to operate, which leads to more air pollution and more greenhouse gases being released into the environment. These solutions will help keep you cool, save a few bucks, and reduce your carbon footprint:
- Use fans to keep the air moving. Ceiling fans can lower the temperature in a room by as much as 7 degrees.
- Window coverings such as shades, drapes or blinds can reflect heat away from the house. Close them during the day on the sunny sides of the house.
- Heat sources inside: turn of lights, computers, etc. when you’re not using them. Don’t use a stove or oven to cook-grill outside. Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact florescent bulbs.
- Air-conditioning: if you use central air, program your thermostat to work around your family’s summer schedule; set the temp higher when no one is around. Clean the filter regularly and change it when it’s dirty. Consider buying a new air conditioner that is an ENERGY STAR product.
- Plant trees: by planting deciduous trees on the south and west sides of your house you can reduce air conditioning costs by as much as 30% and still allow the sun to warm the house in the winter.
- Roofs: install a light colored, reflective roof if you have renovation plans or your roof is ready to be replaced.
- Windows: upgrade your windows to ENERGY STAR windows which will save costs in warm or cold seasons.
- Running air conditioning in the car: when you’re traveling at less than 40 mph, it’s more fuel-efficient to open the windows. Park in the shade, put a shade in the front window of the car and always roll down the windows when getting into a parked car.
Obviously, it may not be possible to eliminate the use of air conditioners entirely, but there are options that use less energy and keep your costs down. Stay cool, save money ---and the environment! From “GREENWorks”-Ideas for a Cleaner Environment, a publication of the New Hampshire Department of Environmental Services, 603-271-1370, and the Office of Energy and Planning, 271-2155, Concord, NH-July 2010